PORTUGAL: What a concept!

Isn’t it strange that the European country nearest to the United States is Portugal, yet most Americans get to  England, France and Italy long before they ever think to visit this grooviest of countries? It’s all the more puzzling to me after spending eight days in Portugal with my wife Sandy and discovering cuisine, weather, history, natural beauty and hospitality equal or superior to the rest of the continent.

Granted, Portugal has seen a lot of investment since it’s entry to the Eurozone circa 1999. The roads and airports are better.  Tourism is improving. And the economy is no longer in critical condition. Still,  I  have to assume the grilled octopus and Douro Valley wines have been delicious and the people have been attractive and friendly for centuries. And I’ve been missing it. No more.

 

IMG_8653
You can waive it off if you like, but most restaurants put a bread plate down automatically and charge you for it. This one with cheese, tuna spread, sardines, shrimp and olives was exceptionally elaborate and delicious.
IMG_8654
Octopus is great hot or cold.
IMG_8473
Clams with a broth you want to take home with you.

 

Here’s a sample tab (in euros worth about $1.12)  for two bodacious glasses of vino tinto and a garlicky bruschetta in a bustling Porto cafe.IMG_8585

Let’s start with the food. Like Spain and Italy, Portugal has mastered the art of tasty, salty pig parts like chorizo, but seafood is where it’s at.  Stunningly fresh, simply prepared and ubiquitous, the sardines, mackerel, dorado, tuna, clams, octopus, lobster are done perfectly.  The value is stupifying. Lunch for two with wine and a sweet treat and coffee  usually rings up under 20 dollars.  Dinner, not much more.

You could spent months or years studying the varietals and microclimates that make Portugese wine world-class. Or you can just ask for red, white or rose and know you’re going to like it. Standards are high.

IMG_8549
Mateus sparkling rose. Yes, that Mateus.
IMG_8627
Slightly effervescent whites like this one taste good surprisingly early in the morning. Three euros for the bottle!
IMG_8641
Thinking of starting a religion centered around white port.
IMG_8580
Bit of fun outside the venerable port house of Ramos Pinto.
IMG_8583
Offley good port on this street.
IMG_2549
Port tasting rooms give you a tour and several samples for about 10 dollars.
IMG_8589
Sandy of the Cellar.

If the Portugese didn’t have such an illustrious past, they could be forgiven for feeling a little dissed by the world. For centuries before Brittania ruled the waves, Portugal was a mighty empire.  Portugese explorers armed with state of the art navigation skills colonized lands from Macau to Mozambique to Brazil. (I wish Brazil started with an ‘M’).  In 1494, the Pope negotiated a deal that basically divvied up Asia, Africa and the New World between Portugal and Spain.

IMG_8485
Henry the Navigator led many of Portugal’s early expeditions. He’s depicted in this monument to discovery built in 1960 in Lisbon along with missionaries, mathematicians, farmers and other power players of the day. 

 

One could easily spend a full week exploring the amazing history and architecture of Lisbon which kept reminding us of San Francisco at every turn. There’s even a min- Golden Gate Bridge and adorable cable cars.  Lisbon, like SF is built on seven hills. There are also gorgeous beaches to the immediate north and south of the Capital.   The Atlantic water is still chilly in June, but I went swimming anyway while Sandy made sure  my life insurance situation was up to date and went shopping.

 

SNACK BREAK!

IMG_2522
Pasteis de Belem are cinnamon flavored baked custards that make you feel good.
IMG_8504
The recipe from 1837 remains unchanged. This original cafe sells 20,000 a day.

Google Palace de Pena in the town of Sintra for details, but this town and it’s several palaces and forts about 45 minutes outside Lisbon is a mind blower.

IMG_8539
Welcome?
IMG_8534
If you can lean you can clean.
IMG_8545
No homeowners association means using any color you want
IMG_8544
Some serious Game of Thrones shit doing down over there.

From Lisbon, we rented a car and this happened.

IMG_8608

But we made it up to Porto, Portugal’s 2nd city for two nights. Splendid. Then drove east along the Douro River Valley through the country’s fabled wine region.  We stayed at Quinta De Ermida, one of dozens of working wineries that host guests in historic homes and screw up their sense of price/value with amazingly inexpensive and wonderful food, wine and accommodations.

IMG_8618
View across the Douro River
IMG_8620
Our room was on the top floor of this stately 150 year old home.
IMG_8634
Violetta appreciates it if you just make an effort to speak Portugese.
IMG_8648
Train from Porto stops at Quintas all along the river.
IMG_8640
White port in the afternoon.
IMG_8626
This kind of stuff just comes at you the whole time.

Finally a shout out to Francisco Marcos and his wife Beverly who split their time between Portugal and Tampa and treated us like visiting royalty. Francisco and Beverly  live on the coast between Lisbon and Porto and shared their love of the natural and cultural richness of Portugal.

IMG_8557
Me and Francisco
IMG_8492
Beverly and Sandy
IMG_2150
It’s tradition for guests at the Marcos home to sign a Friendship Rock”.

Final notes: There are no direct flights to Lisbon from Tampa yet, but it’s only about 6 hours from Boston or New York. A little longer from Miami.   Most everyone speaks English. Driving is a breeze.  Weather is beautiful except in mid-late summer when it can get very hot.  Didn’t even get to  the Algarve in the south of Portugal. Next time. And there will be a next time.

 

Obrigado!

Advertisements

4 thoughts on “PORTUGAL: What a concept!

  1. Agree with Lisa. What a wonderful travelogue, Brendan! You captured so many facets of Portugal both in your narrative and photographically. Roll it up and send to the NY Times travel editor.

    Like

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s